<!-- Generated by XStandard version 2.0.0.0 on 2008-04-04T17:24:24 -->

Mahdia, Tunisia : Travel Guide

The promise of Mahdia has a tendency of coming almost true. While wandering around the city, many of the elements of the city's past is spotted, but it either is too obviously restored, or too little. In the 10th century Mahdia was a very important city, but even more, it was the capital of one of the Muslim worlds most important line of rulers, the Fatimids. The first Fatimid ruler declared himself as the Mahdi, the last prophet of Islam. The Fatimids moved their centre to Egypt after conquering Cairo, and Mahdia had been the capital for just 50 years.

Mahdia was chosen as the capital because of the proximity to the sea, and the promontory on which an important military settlement had been since the time of the Phoenicians. With a wall 10 metres thick, man and nature had built one of this coast's best fortresses. The move of the Fatimids did mean that it was less thoroughly defended, and invasions by Christians, Normans and Turks in the following centuries lead to heavy destruction of the original bastion. Entering today's Mahdia is greatest part of the visit. As you pass through the 10 metre thick wall, that functions as the gate to the city, history feels close. The city never opens after this, and all over Mahdia narrow streets never extends beyond small squares. Mahdia's great charm are the narrow streets, trees, the life of the locals, the cafés. The only really open part of the city is in front of the Great Mosque, which is only great in size, otherwise it is a sad attempt to reconstruct the mosque of the first Fatimids.

The base of the old city of Mahdia is not tourism, but weaving. In the Arab world, quarters and cities often specialised in one product which they sold widely around, and Mahdia has a large part of the production of wedding cloth for the rest of Tunisia.

Around town

If I should chose a favourite town in Tunisia, Mahdia would be it. The ambience and the architecture makes this a perfect place to do nothing for a day or two. Or more. Not that stress has become a part of Tunisians' life yet, but Mahdia would be their first candidate for a Slow Living town.

OK, I admit there is little of houses and decorations you haven't seen many other places in Tunisia, but it is perhaps slightly better done here. And of course it helps that just around the next corner, the ocean opens up, always allowing a fresh breeze to sweeten the hottest of summer days.

The black passage

The black passage, or Skifa el-Kahla, was once the only entrance to the town. It dates back to the early ages of the town, but had to be rebuilt after being blown up by the Spanish in 1554.
The passage is not only visually attractive, but also perhaps the best explanation to the patterns of Tunisian sea ports. Travelling around the country, you cannot avoid noticing that most sea ports are set in a hundred metres or so from the sea. Only very rarely are the towns built along the shore.
The explanation for this is piracy and foreign navies. Each town was almost like a state and had to defend itself, and by placing the town in from the shore, the seaborne invaders was stripped off the advantage of their ships. They had to leave their ships, and suddenly they were the weak ones standing in front of high city walls.
Mahdia was not built like this, and was a piracy stronghold for centuries. Their defence was therefore city walls thicker than usual. Yet, this was not enough, and since the walls were brought down by the Spanish in the 16th century, Mahdia has mainly been a peaceful fishing port.

Skifa el-Kahla

Place du Caire is tiny and very charming. Two cafes serve the needs of anyone in for a rest through the day or at nights. Old trees offer shadow in daytime, and become spooky shapes at night.
During the day, the small minaret of Mustapha Hamza Mosque is dominates the area.

The great mosque

Exploring the Great Mosque of Mahdia is a strange experience. It feels so fake! Still it is supposed to be a rather correct reconstruction of its original 9th century layout and style. Its simplicity is actually mainly a result of the ideals of the Fatimids. Among its more noteworthy elements are the monumental entrance, believed to have been inspired by Roman triumphal arches, of which there are numerous all over Tunisia. This gate was reserved for the Fatimid Mahdi, the ruler, his family and court. The mosque may allow visitors, but it has been closed upon both my two visits to Mahdia.

Mahdia' acheaological museum is a nice place, with well-presented examples from the Punic, Roman, Christian and Islamic periods. Many items are simple and small, like oil lamps. On the floor on the ground floor are three excellent mosaics and marble statues from El Jem.
Note the Islamic column (top photo), in a very indiscrete phallic shape. The writings are from the Koran.
More recent exhibits show Mahdia' tradition with weaving and dress making (two lower photo).
The musuem lies next to the Skifa el-Kahla. It is open summer every day except Monday from 9.00-13.00 and 15.00-19.00, winters every day from 9.00-16.00. Entrance costs 1.1TD, camera permit 1TD.

Town museum

Doors

Doors of Mahdia is as usual nicely decorated, and stands in delightful contrast with the simple houses. It seems as if Mahdia's door makers have a preference in direction of more details than what is usual in Tunisia.

Fish market

The fish market of Mahdia is a lively place, and worth a visit. It is open every day, but most busy on Fridays. Local octopuses are sold here by the bunch. Boys catch these in mornings using spiked canes.

Borj el-Kebir

" el-Kebir" means Big Fortress, and it truly applies. As seen from further out on the peninsula, the city fortress is quite impressive.
It dates back to 1595, while the bastions in the corners are 18th century additions. What you see inside may be disappointing, being almost completely unadorned and with a simple layout. Of the more interesting things are the inner quarters. From atop you will enjoy great views over the city, the port and the sea.

Punic ruins

I don't know for sure whether the ruin area west of the Borj el-Kebir is Punic, really. It is unmarked, and no guide books tell the same story. According to one it may even be remains of a Fatimid palace. Why I believe it is Punic, is because of the style of mosaics, the walls of the houses, and a depth of in the ground indicating that a long time has passed. But apart from that, in its present state it is not impressive or the least beautiful.

The Fatimid port

Of the Fatimid port, very little remains. On both sides of the entrance were towers with a chain suspended between. The base of these are still there, but it is hard to imagine what it must have looked like. Further along the coast, remains of fortifications can be found. The whole eastern tip of the peninsula must have appeared as a sea-based fortress, with the Skifa el-Kahla as the only land-based entrance.

Sailors' cemetary

The extensive cemetary cover large parts of the eastern end of the peninsula, is laid out so that almost every grave can have a seaview, relating to Mahdia's long history of piracy, fishing and sailors. It starts in front of the Borj el-Kebir and continues all the way past the Fatimid port, ending next to the lighthouse. At its eastern end lies the Zaouia of Sidi Jabeur.

Cap d'Afrique

The area at the end of the peninsula is quite nice, being dominated by a red lighthouse and scattered remains of Fatimid fortifications (to the right on top photo). I visited early one August morning, a time of the day when sea and sky almost melts together in a smooth haze.

Tourist's beach

The beach of Mahdia is among the last (almost) unspoilt beaches in this part of Tunisia. But it will not last long, standing where I was you will be able to see the advancing tourist villages further north.

Practicalities

Hotels and Alternatives

During high season, value for money at Mahdia' hotels is not good. I actually decided to sleep in my car summer 2000, because I simply didn' want to stay in the rooms that 40 dinars for a single could buy me.
If you stay in Mahdia you're most likely to end up outside town, in one of the tourist complexes. These are nice, but you won't get anything of Mahdia's charm. There is one charming hotel inside town centre, with nice rooms and dirty bathrooms.

Restaurants and Alternatives

Even if there is only one hotel in town centre, the situation is better with restaurants. Most places are very rudimentary, but close your eyes and concentrate on the food, and you will find yourself counting Michelin stars.

Nightlife

Nightlife in Mahdia does not go beyond street activities in summer - in winter there is nothing at all.
You won't find any bars and discos in town. This you will have to find in some of the beach hotels.

Change Money

No problems. Banks, ATMs and exchange service in the receptions in the better hotels. Many shopkeepers will accept to be paid by VISA or MasterCard, provided that you buy above 10-15 dinars.

Transport

Considering its location, Mahdia does not offer impressive connections to other cities. The most easily accessible means of getting to the 2 northern cities of Monastir and Sousse, appears to be with the local train. This is however sloooow, as it stop as every station along the route, and its average speed cannot be much more than 30 km/h. Otherwise, you will have to resort to a standard collection of shared taxis and buses. Getting out of Mahdia after dark can be difficult, I was almost stranded here in September 1996.