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Sousse, Tunisia : Travel Guide

It is no wonder why Sousse has become a favoured tourist destination. The place has "" a stunning beach, good climate, a beautiful medina, hotels of all classes, good restaurants (try the fish!!!) and many options for daytrips.

All along the northern beach, modern hotels have been, and are still being, built. They all come in the same fashion: Hotel with bar, restaurant and swimming pool. If you cross the main road, you're right on the beach. The beach strip closest to the centre of Sousse is extremely crowded, mainly by Tunisians, coming here as full sized families. It's easy to get in contact with people here, and the attitude is easygoing.

The medina

The medina of Sousse is a pleasure in many ways. It is clearly one of Tunisia' finest, even if it is not very large. But what there is, is charming and relaxed. Hustling is not a problem, and women can walk easily around.

Most of the old city's alleyways are covered, either by tiles, ceiling girder or big eaves. Sousse has earlier had a well-deserved reputation of being a place where the shopkeepers will fool you no matter what you buy - that is no longer true, as more and more shops have fixed, and reasonable, prices (see article on shopping in Sousse). Still there are immature vendors, trying to lure you into their shops making you believe that the price is much lower than it is. There is only one thing to do with such fools: walk away.

The fortified mosque

Coming through the main gate, you face the prayer hall. This is off limits for non-Muslims.

Few old major mosques have seen fewer alterations than the main mosque of Sousse. The result is, that compared to other Tunisian mosques, it appears to be incomplete. Because, where is the tall minaret?

This mosque was built in the 9th century, while a domed kiosk (lowest picture) was added in the 11th, and serves as a minaret.

The style of the mosque is simple, reflecting the religious attitudes and life styles of the rulers of Sousse back then.

Before Muslims pray, the wash well.

Ribat for religious wars

When the ribat was started to be erected in 821 by the Aghlabid rulers, it was principally a fortress against the Christians on Sicily.

The word '' comes from the same root as '', the North African name for holy men. Ribats of these times were generally connected to a very conservative and often ascetic practice of Islam.

Today, the ribat stands right on the Place Farhat Hached, and seems to be lost. What once was impressive, is inundated by the hustle of the modern town.

Around the courtyard, cells for the soldiers are found on 3 sides. The 4th side, the one closest to the entrance, was the prayer hall. However primitive it might appear, it is generally considered to be the oldest mosque of North Africa.

From the top of the nador, the watch tower, you will have great views over Sousse.

The Popular Beach

It is easy to enjoy yourself on the beach in Sousse, even if the high number of people can make it dirty in afternoons.

People are friendly, open, and if you go swimming, don't be surprised if you suddenly find yourself in a ball game with Tunisians.

Kasbah

The kasbah grew up gradually, where the Khalaf Tower (up) was first in 859. The tower was intended as an improvement to the rather modest view from the ribat.

While the kasbah is clearly worth the visit, there is little of special interest here. The main attraction is actually the museum.

Sousse Archaeological Museum

Sousse Archaeological Museum located in the kasbah has what is clearly Tunisia' second most important collection of mosaics; second only to the Bardo museum in Tunis.

The exhibits are dominated by mosaics, but there are many other objects too, like vases, masks, statues and whole burial tombs. The epoch covered here is mainly Roman Tunisia, which are the centuries around year 0.

To this period also belong objects from Christian catacombs in the Sousse region. Just look out for objects and mosaics with the '' symbol.

Another great attraction are found with the mosaics showing scenes from amphitheaters.

Triumph of Bacchus, with the Roman god of wine in a chariot pulled by tigers.

Medusa's Head, with 8 snakes coming out of the monster's head. Note the visual effect created by the "feathers" around it.

Traditional museum of Kalaout el-Koubba

We do not know what purpose the Kalaout el-Koubba originally had; it dates back to the 11th or 12th century, and was built according to Fatimid architectural style.

Both the exterior and interior are attractive, note especially the zigzag fluting of the cupola. It is the only of its kind on the African continent.

Today, it is used mainly as a museum, where well-made presentations show life during Ottoman times.

The museum is open Mon-Thu and Sat 9.30-13.00 and 15.00-17.30, and Sun 10.00-14.00. Entrance fee is 2TD, camera permit 1TD.

The Dar Essid

The Dar Essid, offers a rare opportunity to explore the inner quarters of old days' upper class life. The house, which is open as a privately owned museum, is quite cramped, but beautifully decorated with a mixture of traditional styles, European imports and some private creativity.

The house was used by a 19th century official and the families of his two wives. Each wife had her own chamber, but not far from each other.

Perhaps the most curious item in the house is the Roman oil lamp next to the first wife' bed. It is supposed to have been lit every time they had sex, with the husband being in action as long as the light burned.

On top of the house, there is a cafe about where the servants' quarter used to be. The views here are fine, although roofs of Sousse's houses are not really beautiful.

Zaouia Zakkak

The Zaouia Zakkak lies conveniently next to the popular shopping streets in the medina, and offers the finest example of Ottoman architecture in Sousse. The minaret is octagonal, and the tile work and decorations in blue-green stone has a design probably with roots in Andalucia.

Catacombs

The Catacombs of Sousse may come as a great surprise to many visitors. Many believe that catacombs were built as hiding areas for Christians during time of persecution under the Romans. And even more are unaware of Tunisia' past as a Christian country.

The catacombs were not shelters for the living, but rather for the dead. The tunnels originally stretched for more than 5 km, and contains 15,000 graves.

The area open to visitors, has only about 100 metres of tunnels, but you can see through iron gates into continuing tunnels. Being lit by soft light, a feeling of authenticity is created. You can make out the "doors" of the many graves (see the right wall on the top photo), and two places skeletons are exhibited behind glass.

Medina shopping

The medina of Sousse is fairly good for shopping. Many shop keepers have discovered that there is a good policy of keeping prices reasonable - most tourists here stay for a week or two and have plenty of chances of returning to a shop that gives good service.

There is little you find here, that aren't available in other major tourist destinations elsewhere in Tunisia. In the huge 4 storey shopping mall right outside the medina, they even have items imported from all over northern Africa, and also some items from Africa south of the Sahara. Unfortunately they refuse to accept that I recognize Thuja items from Essaouira in Morocco, or mother-of-pearl boxes from Cairo.

This guy sells copy perfume at very nice prices. And cute bottles for the perfume (fits best to women's perfume).

Top: Sponges from Jerba.Middle: Tunisian clothes are perfect for home dressing.Bottom: Tunisian ceramics sold to tourists, are seldom better than of average quality.

Modern town

The modern town of Sousse is quite standard for Tunisia. Along the beach there are mainly hotels, while the areas closer to the medina are dominated by French colonial architecture.

Night life

This is the heart of night life in Sousse: the esplanade. People walk up and down, until they have to rest and sit down on the wall facing the beach. And on the other side of the street, there are plenty of clubs where live music is performed. But these cost money, and most Tunisians prefer to listen to music from the outside.

Dreams? Well, at a price. This is one of several clubs where the female clientele are working girls. If you want a real disco, hotels are better bets.

This is from one of the clubs. As the music builds, many of the spectators can't sit still anymore and starts dancing. Great!

Bird's eye view

Aerial view of the central parts of the medina. You see parts of the city walls, the old main mosque, and a little bit of the ribat.

Practicalities

Hotels and Alternatives

Since Sousse is a major tourist destination, there are many hotels. In high season (June-early September) prices go up, but fortunately there are seldom problems finding a hotel room.

While high season prices are at least 30-40% above average for Tunisia at the same season (excluding Bizerte, which is even more expensive), prices are very comfortable in the pleasant months right before and after it. Thorugh winter, prices go even further down, but then many hotels also close.

Sousse has all classes of hotels, even if there aren't too many cheapies. As far as I could evaluate in summer 2000, your value for money rises with the standard, so Sousse might be a nice place to splurge.

Restaurants and Alternatives

Sousse has a wide variety of restaurants, and many of them offer good food, charm, good service and reasonable prices at the same time. I have tested some of the typical tourist restaurants, and was surprised by the overall quality. While the rule applies to all of North Africa that restaurants with only a tourist clientele should be avoided, Sousse is a nice exception.

There are also many options along the main tourist streets for budget travellers, too. Pizzas appear to be the best the most popular option here - probably in response to many Western travellers who don't get a liking for Tunisian cuisine.

Nightlife

Sousse has some nightlife, where the best clubs and bars are found in tourist complexes and hotels. These are not terribly much cheaper than Europe.

Sousse also has a section of seedy bars, which offer its male clientele beer and hookers. These places are easy to spot, in order to avoid or enter. It' your choice. If you' uncertain, remember that any place with a cover charge allows you to enter and have a look, before you buy your ticket. Or if you ask, the doorman will tell you what kind of place it is.

There is also a nice section of clubs with live performances. These places are generally licensed, even if there are kids running between the tables.

The beach promenade is a popular place for young Tunisians of both sexes, and it is easy to make new friends here.

Change Money

All options, all over. ATMs, cash withdrawals in banks, currency change in banks and at hotels. Many shops, restaurants and hotels accept major credit cards (American Express can be a bit of a hassle).

Transport

For overland travels, Sousse has the best connections in Tunisia. It is even better than Tunis. All thinkable destinations can be reached. Fortunately, there is only one station for shared taxis, and one for buses. However, the distance between these two is too long to cover on foot if you have luggage. The train station is not too far from the bus station.

Sousse is fairly close to the airport, which it shares with Monastir. The best way of getting from/out here, is actually with the local train (end station down at the harbour), as this stops right outside the entrance to the airport.

Sousse has relatively many car rental agencies, and prices are negotiable. Never take the first offer! And also remember that international agencies not always offer impeccable service and cars, so you might as well use a local agency.