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Tunis, Tunisia : Travel Guide

Tunis? What is Tunis? Well, for one, it's the capital of the African country of Tunisia. And if you're interested in seconds and thirds, you might want to tackle the question of whether it's a still expanding modern city, or the Arab world's best "old" town.

Truth be told, Tunis is a city that lies somewhere in between the ancient and the modern. The city is not very Arab, nor is it very African. And even though you might have heard otherwise, it's not so European either. To put it simply, Tunis is a mysterious city that mixes the old with the new, and spices up the eclectic mix with a variety of authentic cultures in the process. While the city is not a typical tourist destination, people enjoy coming up and visiting some of the popular sites, along with taking trips to places like Hammamet and Sousse. Upon entering Tunis, you'll be shocked to see the sheer cleanliness, the absence of beggars (which a lot of people expect), and the modern garments most of the women sport. Depending on your preferences, there are a lot of places to visit, ranging from the Bardo museum, which has a stunning selection of mosaics; to the zoo which lies in the northern part of the city and is home to far more animals then you might expect to see. While there are a number of other popular destinations to choose from, none are more popular than the traditional souks of Tunis. If you're interested in soaking in a bit of authentic culture, head down to the old city for a stroll around the infamous markets. Bargain with a vegetable vendor for a kilo of fresh tomatoes, or turn a corner to go shopping for perfumes or jewelry. Once you're tired of the loud sights and sounds of the souks, head out to a nice café (like M'Rabet) and order yourself a hot cup of coffee or mint tea. Remember, it's all about the experience. Throughout your trip, don't forget to sit down, relax and take in the surroundings; and don't be scared to tell sketchy young men to take a hike or to strike up a conversation with one of the locals: you might be surprised at how interesting and friendly they really are.

Walking the Souks (Suuqs)

Tunis, a haven for shoppers worldwide is known for the 'Suuqs' (Arabic for 'market') that spot the old city. Once in Tunis, you will soon learn that the marketplace is also a central social location. Traditionally, the souk only occupied a small part of the 'Medina' (Arabic for 'town'); today, there are so many spread out over Tunis that it's hard to define where the shopping area begins and where it ends. Thus, the locals - only a small percentage of whom live in the old town - largely refer to the marketplace as the Medina.

Upon entering the Medina, the many souks are sure to charm you with their distinctly Arabic feel and flavor, and their astonishing blend of the traditional and the modern. A visit to the souks is an absolute must, but buying is not recommended unless you pride yourself at being an ace haggler. The prices here are often very high, and a lot of tourists allow themselves to get conned into paying much more than the items are worth. So, however tempting stuff may seem, try and keep your wallet well out of reach. Stores and museum gift shops are your best bet for quality shopping. However, if you do see

something that catches your eye, make sure you bargain heavily. Start at an unbelievably low figure, and stick to it. You will be surprised at the outcome!

Although the arrangement of the souks may appear chaotic at first glance, it's anything but. As in most Arab cities, the souks here are also arranged in a traditional fashion with the "clean" shops (those selling clothes, crockery etc) located close to the Zitouna or the main mosque, and other businesses like dyeing and crude metal works located further away. Separate alleys demarcate the goldsmiths from the metal fabricators, and the garment sellers from the handicraft shops. There is even an area for tourists where one can buy souvenirs. Getting to this area is simple: head to Bab el Bahr (the gate which divides the Medina from the new town) and take the left entrance to the souk.

While wandering the Medina, there are some souks you must take out time to visit. The Souk de la Laine, for example, is the souk of the weavers. Though it boasts only a fraction of its erstwhile glory, you can still witness the handloom weaving process in all its brilliance. Handloom products are expensive, and are mostly bought by affluent clients or people purchasing for special occasions. Another souk you don't want to miss is the Souk des Chechias, which houses the makers of woolen caps (chechias). Chechia making is an old craft, and was imported to Tunis by Muslim refugees from Andalusia. This souk is just off the Souk el Bey, and is very easy to locate. And, of course, every Arab city has its gold souk. Tunis's Souk des Orfèvres is located quite close to the main mosque. High carat gold is sold here (the locals don't think too much of European style 9 and 14 carat gold); although the designs are not very attractive, if you bargain right, you are sure to get yourself a good deal.

When visiting the souks, remember to just walk around and imbibe the culture and sheer excitement penetrating them all; and don't forget to bargain incessantly for at least one of your favorite products.

Zitouna - the Great mosque

The Zitouna (Olive Tree) Mosque is Tunis's main mosque, and has been around ever since Tunis became an Islamic city. In fact, most of Tunis has been built around the Zitouna. The mosque gets its name from its founder who is known to have taught the Koran under an olive tree.

While the Emir Aghlabide Abou Il Abbés Mohamed built the Zitouna in the 9th Century, the infamous minaret (visible in the photo) was added much later in the 19th century. In the early days - before formal universities were established in both Europe and North Africa - the mosque was not just a house of worship, but also an educational centre. It continued to play its part in teaching until as recently as the 1950's. If you research the history of the mosque (or talk to the locals), you will learn that each teacher sat next to his own column, with his students surrounding him. The idea of such close-quartered study symbolizes the close bond most teachers and students shared.
If you're interested in paying a visit, the Zitouna is open to non-Muslim visitors from 8 a.m. to noon every day (except on Fridays and Islamic holidays), for a fee of 2 dinars per person. However, once inside, your visit is restricted to a gallery at the entrance, so it makes more sense to brave one of the rooftops in the neighborhood (locals will offer to take you for a fee), as you can see a lot more from there.

Café M'Rabet - A Turkish Haven

This popular medieval café - located in the middle of the Medina - is a must-visit, not just for the food and drink, but also because it offers visitors all the trimmings of a Turkish night-out. The interior of the café is ethnic Turkish, and it is widely known that it has not been changed in nearly a century! Upon entering, you will be asked to take off your footwear, as the cafe is built over the tombs of three holy men. Once you make yourself comfortable on the wide platforms cushioned with tatties, you can experience Arabic nightlife at its best, complete with belly dancing, live music, Turkish coffee and hookahs.

In the daytime, the Café M'Rabet is a welcome respite from the heat. A cup of mint tea to revive your spirits, and you will be ready to hit the souks again. The café is open daily from 2 pm to 10 pm.

Bab el Bahr - Gate to the Sea

The Bab el Bahr is a city gate to the Medina, and is located on the Avenue de France, close to the Place de l'Indépendance. Bab el Bahr translates to "Gate to the Sea". In the early days of Tunis, this gate opened out into a huge ground, beyond which the lay the Lake of Tunis. After the French arrived in the 19th century, they changed the name of the gate to Porte de France, as it opened out to the Ville Nouvelle - the European part of town inhabited by them.

Even though the old walls have crumbled, the main gate still stands, and has remained unchanged since it was built in 1848. On the left of the gate is the Rue Charles de Gaulle, where Tunis's Head Post Office is located.

Government quarters

The area hosting the Government quarters is meticulously clean and very well kept. It is known as the Place du Gouvernement, and is actually a large airy, square that draws quite a contrast to the narrow, busy streets you just walked through. It is just a little beyond the Rue de Kasbah and a few streets up from the Zitouna mosque.

The Prime Minister's Office is housed in the Dar el Bey which is on one side of the square. The building must have been a natural choice for the office of the country's premier, as it was once a royal guesthouse, and is undoubtedly a very prestigious address. You might find the area quite deserted in the evenings, but during official hours the square and the streets leading up to it are populated with government officials donning their traditional Tunisian costumes. Even though the square is heavily guarded, the guards don't mind you taking photographs, so make sure you capture the beautiful architecture on film.

If you stand in the square, and look around, you will see two prominent minarets. One is part of the Youssef Dey Mosque (built in 1616), and the other belongs to the Kasbah mosque, (built in 1235). Interestingly enough, the minaret on the Zitouna mosque was modeled on the latter.

Halfaouine

This popular middle-class Tunisian neighborhood is home to one of two very popular food markets. The market is open daily between 8 am and 1 pm. You will be amazed at the huge variety of condiments and Mediterranean and Arabic foods that this market offers. Also, if you are looking for some traditional Tunisian cookware, this is the place to buy it.

When you return from your trip to Tunis, do watch the 1990 Tunisian movie "Halfaouine: Boy of the Terraces". Besides finding glee in recognizing the streets of Tunis, you will be amazed at the rare and novel combination of sensuality and humor in this depiction of life in Tunis in the 1960's.

Bab Souika

Bab Souika is strategically located bang in the middle of the Hafaouine area and the souks of the Medina. In the 1980's, clashes with the Islamists resulted in a fire, which burnt the original town quarter down.

In an ambitious new project, the town was rebuilt, existing structures were conserved and upgraded, and new housing spaces were built. The new design is stylish, and the area is now quite popular with Tunisians.

Place Halfaouine

Though now a poorer part of town, the Place Halfaouine was quite a fashionable locale in the 18th century. Although the French hadn't arrived then, most of the buildings boasted European architectural styles. A notable example, the mosque of Youssef Sahib at Taba'a was built in 1812 using imported Italian building materials like marble, columns and wrought iron railings. The end result was a building which did not look much different from a stylish palazzo. The minaret atop the mosque however, was not finished until 1970. Today, Place Halfaouine has lost its former glory and is a charming though run don part of town, housing a grocery market.

Bab el Khadra

Like the Bab el Bahr, the Bab el Khadra is one of the gates entering into the Medina, the architecture of which is quite unique to this part of Northern Africa.

It has a distinctly European style and quite resembles the gates of a European castle. However, the original 14th century gate was rebuilt in 1881 and is what you see now.

Doors and Windows

You can't help but notice the beautiful gates, and the brightly painted (in hues of blue, green and orange) wooden windows and doors that adorn the houses in Tunis. Visitors are often surprised to see that, in contrast, the interiors of these houses are simple and bare. Oddly enough, the artfully done up doors and windows are a gauges of a family's wealth and standing.

Colonial houses

As you step out of the old city and into the Ville Nouevelle, you will be transported into an old-world French era. Here, the houses, shops and almost every other building still bears the stamp and ambience of the French, perhaps even more so than any city in France itself. From the architecture and the names of streets to cafes and pastry shops, it still seems that this part of Tunis is living in the Colonial times.

Cathedral

The Cathedral situated on Place de l'Indépendence is named after Vincent De Paul, a Catholic saint who came as a slave to Tunis and helped other Christian slaves upon earning his freedom. The architecture of the Cathedral is often criticized as being grotesque, and it does seem quite out of place amidst the structures around it. However, one must remember that the Cathedral was built by the French living in a predominantly Islamic country, and the architectural style quite reflects this oddity. The Cathedral was built in 1882, and is incidentally currently one of the largest vestiges of the Colonial era.

Inside the Cathedral is the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and a National Archaeological Museum that hosts an enviable collection of Roman artwork.

Modern town

The modern town, or the part of Tunis that came up in the last century, is quite ordinary. The buildings and houses seem to have been built hastily, without style or quality, and with seemingly identical designs. The Africa Hotel (often referred to as the Ugliest Hotel in North Africa) is also situated in this part of Tunis.

Other prominent structures include the Du Lac (built in the shape of an inverted pyramid) and the International Hotel. Fortunately, newer buildings in this part of town are being built using aesthetic, creative designs in an attempt to match the buildings of yesteryear.

At night

As the sun comes down on Tunis, the city becomes relatively quiet. The palm trees reflect the glow of the streetlights, and bathe the city with an eerie beauty.

Like in most Arabic cultures, families come out of their houses and sit on their doorsteps or porches. It is their way of unwinding at the end of a busy day. As night sets in, the city is quite peaceful, and the hustle and bustle of the day seems to fade slowly into the background.

It's amazing what the correct use of lights can do. At night even North Africa's ugliest hotel, the Africa, looks nice.

Bardo museum

A visit to Tunis is only half accomplished without a trip to the Bardo Museum. The building was once the palace of Husaynid Beys, a Tunisian Governor. Most visitors leave disappointed when they don't have enough time to look around, so plan your trip to the museum well, and don't schedule anything else for the day. The palace and its interiors are breathtaking, and the collections on display are spectacular.

Spread over three floors, with displays ranging from statues, mosaics and frescos to examples of the inhabitants' ostentatious lifestyle, this eighteenth century palace is a real treat for the eyes. The collection of Roman mosaics (supposedly the world's best) is the highlight of the museum tour, and you will be amazed to see entire walls and floors covered in mosaic, such as the one displayed in the accompanying photograph. The museum also displays belongings of the royal inhabitants, including a bed for royalty (pictured here). You will also find statues from the Punic times, discovered in Carthage, Dougga, El Jem, Sousse, near Mahdia and Thubrubo Majus. The second floor also houses two fresco rooms.

The museum is located just opposite the Bardo Metro Station. Its beautiful gardens are immediately visible from the station, and a 5-minute walk will take you to the entrance.

Practicalities

Hotels and Alternatives

You will find no dearth of hotels in Tunis, and there's something available for every budget. The medina and the town center hotels cater to shoestring budgets, though they do not give you good value for money. I would recommend checking into a star hotel, but not a high-end one like the Africa or International, as they are too highly priced. The exception however, is the Renaissance Spa Resort in Tunis and the Abou Nawas. Although quite expensive, the Renaissance in La Marsa is quite luxurious and has great spa treatments.

If you want to save on boarding, opt for a mid range hotel. They are comfortable and even though accommodation in Tunis is more expensive than in other parts of the country, you will be able to get a good deal. Remember, if you check in early in the day, you will end up getting a better rate than those who traipse in later.

There are also the famous hotel chains, like the Radison and Sheraton. They are relatively safe options, as you already know what to expect.

Restaurants and Alternatives

There is also no dearth of restaurants in Tunis, and tourists often treat themselves gleefully to the cheap and hearty meals that the city offers. From roadside stalls to chic French sit-down restaurants, getting yourself a meal in Tunis is one problem you can waive off your list.

That said, you would want to know the names of some must-visit eateries, and here they are: If you are in the Medina, and are looking for a place to eat lunch, head to Mahdoui. It is very close to the Zitouna Mosque; the prices are low and the food is delicious. For more low-cost appetizing meals, try the Noir & Blanc and Abid, both located on Rue de Yougoslavie. A huge tray of nibbles (usually olives, bread and harissa) is yours to enjoy as you wait for the main course to arrive.

For some more expensive options (they will still seem cheap to you), try the Chez Nous, Chez Achor, SFAX or Carthage. Carthage is located quite close to Avenue Bourguiba, and while you are in the vicinity, you can also try the Restaurant Capitole, which is sure to surprise you with its oversized portions and cheap rates. Locals eat here, so you can be sure the food is authentic Tunisian fare. Carcassonne is another such restaurant.

However, remember not to restrict yourself to recommended places. Chances are, wherever you eat in Tunis, you won't be disappointed.

Nightlife

Despite being the capital of Tunisia, night life here is not terribly exciting. When it gets good, it happens in conjunction with Islamic festivals, like duFor those who wish to experience the nightlife in Tunis, options are pretty limited. You could go to a high-rise hotel with a rooftop bar (the El Hana International hotel has one such rooftop, with breathtaking views of Tunis city) or head down to a restaurant where you can enjoy belly dancing and live music as you have your dinner. However, it is best for tourists to remain cautious on their nights out. Since most nightclubs and bars have mostly male patrons, female tourists, if traveling alone, are best advised to stick to the bars in posh hotels.

Like most Moslem-dominated cities, the nightlife perks up during Ramadan. The restaurants fill up quickly, and are open till the wee hours of the morning. However, alcohol is not served during Ramadan, so you will have to enjoy the festivities while sipping on some mint tea or hookah.
ring Ramadan and the Great Feast. And then most things happen in the streets, and do not involve the consumption of alcohol. Discos are rather few, and many of them are dominated by men. The few women coming out, are often together with friends, brothers or husbands. There are however no reason for female travellers to stay away, the male clients are friendly. There are some places to go out and have a drink. These places are often seedy to say the least, and not recommended for women. Bars in good hotels are far better, but most of the places I have visited have been quite boring.

Changing Money

You will have no problems changing your money in Tunis, and you can do so at several places all over the city. Various ATM's, banks and money exchange points can be found in and around prominent locations.

If you are wary of going to a local money exchange shop, change your money at your hotel desk. If you don't have cash on you, most shops, hotels and restaurants usually accept major credit cards.

Transport

In the way of transport, Tunis offers the Metro, trains, buses, shared taxis and hired cars. Tunis Airport has regular international flights to most destinations, and also to other cities in Tunisia. To travel between Tunisian cities, you could opt for a hired car, take a bus, go by the Tunisian Railways, or fly. The shared taxi system is quite organized here, and these taxis usually ply on fixed routes, somewhat like busses. To get from the airport to the Tunis town (a distance of about 8 km), it's best to take a taxi.

If you are staying in Tunis for a bit, take trains and trams for your suburban tours. Within the city you can also try the Metro, which is not an underground train, but a tramway system. However, make sure you keep an eye open for your destination, as prominent boards do not mark stations. Renting a car is a good choice in other parts of Tunisia, but definitely not in Tunis. If you do want to hire a car, go to a good car rental company, and make sure you check your car thoroughly before driving off.

When exploring the city centre and the Medina, the best option is to simply walk! The more walking you do the more sights and sounds you take in, and the more pleasure you extract from your visit to the enigmatic city of Tunis!