The Kerkennnah Islands lie 20km off the coast of Sfax in the Gulf of Gabes. This low-lying archipelago of islands is no more than 3 metres maximum elevation. The two main islands are Chergui and Gharbi and there are five smaller islands.
During Roman times Kerkennah was a useful port and look-out position. It was the place of exile for Hannibal of Carthage. Today it remains untouched by modernization and is in an unspoilt, natural state. These isolated islands have long sandy beaches with a scattering of local fishing boats. They are a wonderful place to relax and chill out.The 14,400 inhabitants live at a slower pace of life than the mainland but severe drought and lack of irrigation deters many people from living there. Locals mainly raise chickens and goats and fishing is the main industry. Even here the locals use centuries old traditional methods of fishing. They use fish traps shaped as a funnel made from palm fronds to trap the fish or they slap the water with sticks and the fish jump out onto flat surfaces. Watching them at work wading in the shallows can be fascinating. The fish they catch is mainly bream, mullet, sole, sea bass and rouget along with lobster and octopus which are caught in clay pots. The octopus are a local delicacy and are delicious served fresh from the sea with a local sauce.The local architecture on the islands is traditional but rather run-down and lacks the charm of more properous areas of Tunisia. However the friendly locals more than make up for the somewhat unattractive architecture.The islands have dirt roads and few cars, maintaining the peace and quiet which the islands offer.
The best beaches can be found about 4km north of Sidi Fredj. Fishing trips can be taken and are remarkably cheap at around $25 for half a day’s fishing, including tackle and bait.One of the main attractions on the Kerkennah Islands is the 1000-year-old ruins of Borj el Hissar, in a wonderful setting close to the sea. The fortress was rebuilt by the Spanish in the 16th century but some of the original Roman mosaics and walls can still be seen.Other places to visit are the small fishing port of El Attaia and the larger village of Remla which is the main town on Chergui. Remla is on the east coast and is little more than a hamlet by most standards with a few local places to eat. El Attaia is a small and charming fishing village which the march of development seems to have passed by. The small port is in the strait between Gremdi and El Attaia and has about 30 local fishing boats bobbing in the water – a pretty sight. The local museum contains little more than the main exhibit – the fishing boat which Habib Bourguiba used to escape in from the French during the fight for independence in the 1950s.PracticalitiesGetting ThereLocal ferries run from Sfax to the main island of Gharbi and carry both cars and foot passengers. The trip takes about one hour. Most tourists choose to stay in the tourist village of Sidi Fredj. The two main islands are linked by a single track road across a causeway which dates back to Roman times.
Where to Stay
European visitors should head for Sidi Fredj as it is the only place which offers suitable accommodation, hotels, restaurants and beach activities. It has about 5 hotels which are simple but clean such as the Cercina Hotel which has a shady terrace and a good restaurant.RestaurantsThe towns on the Kerkennah Islands have some local cafés and restaurants but the hotels have the best standard of restaurants.
Nightlife
Some of the hotels at Sidi Fredj offer music and entertainment but the islands are generally very quiet.
Climate in Kerkennah
The islands are warm and dry with strong prevailing winds. Temperatures range seasonally from 15C (59F) minimum to a sizzling 48C (118F) maximum.CurrencyRemla is the only place which has a bank and offers currency exchange.TransportThe best way to get around is by bicycle or moped as the islands are flat and the roads are almost deserted.
