Monastir, Tunisia : Travel Guide
If Bourguiba appears as a very modern and moderate leader from the books of history, Monastir is a proof how dead serious he actually took himself. Money that this country could have used so much better in other areas, have been put into making Monastir, the birthplace of Bourguiba, into his mausoleum. In the centre of town a grand cemetery ends in a domed palace-like structure, the place where Bourguiba has been put to rest. But the people of Monastir, and really not most Tunisians either, won’t object. North Africans have learned to accept some extravagance from their leaders.
Mausoleum
When all this is said, the mausoleum and the arrangements inside the city itself, have a distinct artistic value, and keep up the traditional, complex and beautiful architecture of Tunisia. But sometimes the centre of Monastir tips over, and get a feeling of museum. Fortunately this impression is challenged by the old ribat (sufi centre) opposite the Bourguiba mausoleum. This ribat is an example of well conducted reconstruction, and it has an ancient atmosphere. It was even used as a part location for films like Life of Brian and Life of Christ. But if you came to Monastir to see the modern face of Tunisia, you shouldn’t forget the marina, just 1000 metres from the mausoleum.
Bourguiba’s Mausoleum
:First the cemetary of the 12th century holy Sidi el Maziri, with his tomb to the left. Around him, hundreds of Muslim graves are found. And behind this, the fenced in mausoleum.
As seen from the Ribat
Habib Bourguiba
A gilded statue of Habib Bourguiba as a school boy is placed in a small park near the town hall.
The mausoleum of Bourguiba’ family is an odd reminder of Tunisia’ political system. Habib Bourguiba was the first president of Tunisia, and although he never was elected by the people in free elections, he is generally considered as the father of the modern nation.
Bourguiba died in 2000, and was buried here. Before him, his parents and his wife had both been lain to ground under one of the 2 green domes.
The mausoleum was started to be built in 1963, and has many similarities to the typical mosque and holy man’s tomb (zawiyya). In addition to the 3 domes (2 green and one gilded), there are 2 minarets marking the entrance to the complex.
The Mausoleum
Ribat of cinema-Christ
The Ribat of Harthema down at the sea is probably the main attraction in Monastir. Its setting, as well as itself, is quite beautiful.
Sea Front
It was begun as early as in 796, but warfare and development have brought upon it several remakes. And now, in times when it serves no more military purpose, restoration is being done to the extent that it appears to be in its heyday of full use.
The area around the lookout tower, nador is the oldest part. The walls to the south of this part are from the 9th century, while the northern walls date back to the 11th century. Some small areas belong to the 18th and 19th centuries.
Watch Tower
The ribat has been used in a handful of quite famous films, like one of the best British films ever, Life of Brian and in the Italian directed Life of Christ.
Stairway
As you walk around the kasbah, you realize that the film makers had to do quite a bit of work to make the setting work properly. It is only from certain angles that you won’ spot something modern, whether it be flood lights or a modern building structure.
But there is more that challenge the feeling of authenticity: Today the courtyard is filled with chairs as well as a stage for evening performances.
Looking over
The Slick Medina
Shops and Restaurants
Monastir was totally changed in the 1960′ Not only was the mausoleum of Bourguiba started, but there were major changed even to the medina. Large areas were torn down, and replaced with open streets, nice building with porticos.
Of the medina, only some few areas remain, and most of these are really swarmed with tourist stalls. The vendors have since long discovered that tourists prefer to shop in an oriental atmosphere.
Seating
Sometimes restoration can be taken too far. This part of the old city walls is rebuilt just a few years ago, and looks more like Las Vegas than Tunisia.
City wall
Some few places, the genuine medina of Monastir has survived. The claim to be Hard Rock Cafe (label next to door) is far-fetched.
Blue doors and windows
Around the Museum
The museum is interesting of 2 reasons. First it has a nice collection of ancient Islamic writings, fabrics, pottery, astrolabes and carved roof timber. Secondly it is placed in the prayer hall of the original and oldest parts of the ribat.
OK, it might have been restored several times, but its appearance hasn’t been tampered with.
Inside museum
Ancient Tunisian pottery
Ancient Tunisian pottery – styles hasn’t changed much.
Roof timber
Carved roof timber where the darkening of the wood has made it difficult to differentiate the paint that was added.
Astrolabes
Astrolabes. These instruments were used on sea to navigate after the stars.
Reading stool
A reading stool. The book is put on the stool, while the reader sits on the ground. A very traditional way of reading holy scriptures like the Koran – the reader doesn’t have to soil the book while reading.
The Beach
Beach
The town beach of Monastir is a real gem. Even if it has town centre as its closest neighbour, both sand and water is clean. And the combination with the islet makes this a very beautiful spot, no matter where you turn your head.
Sea
The Big Mosques
Main mosque of Monastir
This is the main mosque of Monastir, which is totally dwarfed as it is placed next to the ribat. It was built in the 9th century, and rebuilt in the 11th.
Bourguiba mosque
And this is the Bourguiba mosque from 1963. Despite its young age, it was built according to traditional patterns. Teak doors were built by craftsmen from Kairouan, and the prayer hall has 86 pink marble pillars holding up the vault. Underneath, there is space for up to 1,000 faithful at one time.
Practicalities
Hotels and Alternatives
Monastir has plenty of hotels, but almost all are expensive, and aimed at package tourists. There are only a few budget options, as well as a youth hostel.
Restaurants and Alternatives
Similar to hotels, there are few options for hungry budget travellers. People with more money to spend, will have more options, but in general Monastir is town where many tourists eat in the hotel.
Nightlife
Fairly good, if you go to the hotels. Here your options will include bars and Western style discos.
Change Money
No problems. Banks, ATMs and exchange service in the receptions in the better hotels. Many shopkeepers will accept to be paid by VISA or MasterCard, provided that you buy above 10-15 dinars.
Transport
Acceptable connections with principally Sousse up north. The best, and cheapest way of getting to Sousse is however with the local train. This will take about 10 minutes longer to get there, but costs only 1/6 of a taxi ride (approx. 1.400 dinars, while the taxi ride costs around 10 dinars).
If you’ going to Mahdia, the local train is also an option, but takes long time.
If you’re going to more remote destinations in Tunisia, go to Sousse first, and get your final connection there.
